Final leg of our journey

Tonight is the last night of our trip and we are anchored on the southeast side of Sanibel. Tomorrow - home!

We haven't had much wi-fi lately, so I'm combining a few posts that I've worked on along the way. Photos will come later:

Saturday, April 9 - I'm sitting in a gazebo at Sampson Cay Marina, gazing out at beautiful scenery and relishing the soft, cool breeze. Life is good. Colby, a nine-year old boy, just joined his dad here with his bag lunch and asked me if I needed any cleaning done on our boat. After living on it for nearly six weeks? Um, yeah - it could definitely use a little cleaning. I told him to go have Wayne put him to work. 

This is probably the nicest marina we've seen in the Exumas - nicely maintained and scenic, with a relatively well-stocked (for the Exumas) grocery store. It also offers great protection from foul weather - whatever that is. We've only had one day of rain, one nighttime thunderstorm, and a couple of scattered showers since leaving home.

After our 112 mile crossing from the Ragged Islands on Tuesday, April 5, we anchored for a night at Little Farmer's Cay, then went in to the marina for a night. We used their free wi-fi to catch up on email, etc., then walked into "town."

JR the woodcarver, signing our purchase

Next stop was Big Majors for two nights, where we snorkeled Thunderball Cave (sure hope fish don't carry rabies - they got a bit over-zealous when I was feeding them),

visited the swimming pigs, popped in to Staniel Cay for a drink and cracked conch, and played dominoes on Windswept Dreams with Ed, Ann, Chris, and Sheila. We met Ed and Ann when we were anchored at Norman's Cay and, without knowing it, anchored near them at Big Majors. Also anchored right next to us there were a couple from Punta Gorda who are good friends of Marilyn and Bruce. That's how it is cruising the Bahamas - you keep running into people you know and you share common acquaintances with nearly everyone you meet.

Which brings us to Sampson Cay. A little while after we docked, we ran into Ed and Ann at the fuel dock. The four of us went for a late lunch of pizza and conch fritters, then after dinner they stopped by so I could give Ann a basket weaving lesson (she had gone to a class in Georgetown but forgot how it was done). Sunday morning Reflection called us on the VHF and they, too, were anchored at Sampson and coming in for fuel. They stopped over afterward and Marilyn gave ME another basket weaving lesson.

We left Sampson Cay about noon on Sunday and made the short but tricky trek down to Pipe Creek, which is probably our favorite spot in the Exumas. It's tricky because of the windy entrance with shallow rocks and reefs en route to the anchorage off Thomas Cay; good visibility is a must for safe navigation there. On the plus side, once you're in you probably have it to yourself because not many boats go in there. And it's beautiful, with good shelling and snorkeling (you have to snorkel at slack tide to avoid the current, though). Ed and Ann dinghied down from Sampson to snorkel with us. I was the first one in the water and about thirty feet from our dinghies when an Eagle Ray swam by. I yelled to the others, then took photos of him as he circled me three times before swimming off. It was magical.

Thursday, April 14 - Our two nights at Pipe Creek marked the official end of our vacation. We're heading home now, and for us that means we get up as early as 4 a.m., sail all day, anchor for the night, and repeat until we're home. We anchored at Shroud Cay on Tuesday and West Bay off New Providence on Wednesday. 

Normally when we anchor for the night we're tucked into a cove or at least on the leeward side of an island for protection from wind, waves, and current. But occasionally we're anchored as we are tonight - with nothing but water as far as the eye can see. We're in twenty feet of calm water about 30 miles south of Gun Cay (the nearest island) and will cross the Gulf Stream tomorrow to Rodriguez Island, off the coast of Florida.

Wayne's up in the cockpit and keeps calling me up to see the weird fish that seem to be skipping over the surface of the water. Hmmm... Of course, I haven't seen one yet. I told him he's been at sea too long. 

Last night some "neighbors" stopped by to chat for a few minutes, then motored off in their dinghy. A while later they came blasting back at full throttle to tell us they had just seen a 13 foot hammerhead shark. Um... no snorkeling this evening for us, thank you.

After an uneventful night anchored at Rodriguez Island off Key Largo on Friday, we took a short-cut through the Keys. Wayne had been skeptical of going that way because of the depth, but Reflection draws 5 1/2 feet (we draw 5 feet) and can get through there, so we felt safe. Five Mile Channel saved us one day of travel over our route through Marathon and the Seven Mile Bridge. We had to time it tide-wise to be able to get under the 65' bridge comfortably, but with enough depth to navigate the shallow water; it worked out well.

Last night we opted to skip anchoring in Little Shark River and instead anchored about eight miles north of there. It was very calm and we slept well.


Check back for more photos and videos.

Spotted Eagle Ray and Friends - April 10

Ed and Ann dinghied down from Sampson Cay to snorkel with us in Pike Creek. I was the first one in the water and about thirty feet away from them when a Spotted Eagle Ray and two companion fish swam by. I yelled to the others, then took photos as the ray and his friends slowly and gracefully circled me three times before swimming off.

It was magical. 

Return to Paradise from Paradise

As I write this, we are headed back to civilization - the Exumas - after spending two weeks in paradise. Which isn't to say that the Exumas aren't paradise; it's just a matter of degrees and yes, personal preference. We left Buena Vista Cay at 3:45 this morning and expect to anchor at Little Farmer's Cay around 6:30 this evening.

The Ragged Islands were everything we had hoped they would be: We overlooked long, pristine white beaches from idyllic anchorages, and from at least one spot, were nearly surrounded by MANY beautiful beaches. The crystal clear waters beckoned to us and our snorkels relentlessly, and the unspoiled and abundant reefs - teeming with countless varieties of coral, plants, and sea creatures - mesmerized and thrilled us, making it an effort to tear ourselves away.

Especially me. Except for being with loved ones, nothing makes me happier than reveling  in God's creation, and revel I did. Wayne enjoys it too, of course, but spent a lot of time following me and waiting for me in the dinghy, patient man that he is. At one spot we went to, near our anchorage at Double Breasted Cay, the ocean floor was littered with sea biscuits, as many as I cared to scoop up (and I did collect quite a few).

We saw a remarkable number of Barracudas while snorkeling, far more than we've seen in past snorkeling or diving excursions. They're curious creatures and show a disconcerting level of interest in us; it feels like we're being stalked. Wayne saw about a dozen of them at one time, which admittedly caused him a bit of anxiety. I seem to be the one who always spots the sharks, though; I saw probably half a dozen (only one per excursion), while Wayne spotted none. They don't pay us much attention, Mom.


We were only in Duncan Town one day to deliver books and school supplies with the Conklins (coordinators of Operation Bahamas Project), explore the settlement, have a burger, and make use of the restaurant's wi-fi. I use the term "restaurant" loosely because there is only one table and the few other patrons were school kids on lunch break, watching TV and lounging around an adjacent sitting area.

One of the major attractions of the Jumentos and Ragged Islands for us is the solitude. Many boaters cruise the Caribbean and the Bahamas, but the Jumentos and Ragged Islands are largely undiscovered (although there have been more visitors in just the past couple years). We were with Marilyn and Bruce most of the time, but there were days when we saw no other boats and the only conversations on the VHF were between Reflection and Lena Bea. That level of solitude isn't for everyone and two (okay, maybe three) weeks is probably enough for us, too. But we were blessed by the experience and will return.

We've enjoyed spending time with Marilyn and Bruce. They're dear people and oh, can Marilyn cook! One day she had us over for a breakfast of Eggs Benedict and that evening for a spur-of-the-moment dinner of fresh cracked conch. Bruce and Wayne had gone out in the dinghy in search of conch. Wayne dove for them and the guys came back with over a dozen conch, which they took to the beach to clean (Bruce mentored Wayne on that fine art).

I've never cooked conch and Marilyn has made cracked conch, conch fritters, and conch chowder, so she showed me how to prepare them. Our share is in the freezer, waiting until we get back to Punta Gorda for me to give it a go.

Of course, we had Marilyn and Bruce over for dinner a couple times, too, but I can't keep up with Marilyn. Did I mention her bread? She makes the yummiest artisan bread! Oh, and one day Christian and Martin - a couple of local fishermen - came by with a boatload of live, freshly-speared lobster (and a humongous Goliath Grouper).

Wayne and I bought half a dozen very large tails for $25. We froze five of them and shared one for dinner that night; I couldn't even finish my half. Anyway, Conklins bought some as well, and a couple days later Marilyn made lobster bisque and gave us a container of it to have for lunch. It was the best! 

Thanks, Marilyn and Bruce, for inviting us along and helping make our stay in the Ragged Islands a richer and more memorable experience by sharing so generously your food, your nautical experience, your knowledge of the Raggeds, your weather reports, and most of all - your friendship. We admire the work you do collecting books and supplies for the children in the Bahamas and we thank you for that on their behalf. Oh, and I certainly have to thank Marilyn for teaching me how to weave baskets! What a surprisingly fun and addictive hobby!

Basket-weaving is not something I ever imagined myself doing, but with no internet access, no TV, no cell phones, and few unread books remaining on my Kindle... well, basket-weaving while listening to music is a pleasant pastime.

 
Now I just need to figure out what to do with all my shells.

Greetings from Duncan Town, Ragged Islands

Marilyn and Bruce Conklin, coordinators of Operation Bahamas Project,
delivering books and school supplies to the school in Duncan Town, Ragged Islands

Just a quick check-in to let you know we made it to the Ragged Islands. We grabbed a burger at the Bonefish Grill in Duncan Town, where we have internet for the first time in a week. Cuba is about 50 miles west of here.

We are now officially in the tropics and we can feel the difference. Can't wait to get in the water and do some snorkeling.

We're traveling with Bruce and Marilyn Conklin; this is their third or fourth trip down here and it's a bonus to have guides in these mostly uncharted waters. Marilyn taught me how to weave baskets from Silver Palm fronds, and I'm progressing well - she said I'm her star pupil, but she probably says that to all her students.

Well, more later, but it could be another week. I should have photos, too.

Heading to the Jumentos and Ragged Islands

We're sitting at Lorraine's Cafe in Black Point, using the wi-fi access Lorraine makes available to cruisers for a small donation. We're trying to get all our online work done before we leave civilization sometime in the next few days. We've decided to head down to the Jumentos Cays and Ragged Islands with Bruce and Marilyn. It's a perfect opportunity because they've been down there a number of times and it's good to go with someone who's experienced and knows the area. It's very remote and the only settlement, Duncan Town, currently has a population of only about 50 people. Cruisers who go there must be very self-sufficient because there's supposedly no place to get food, fuel, or water. That works for us; we prefer the more remote areas anyway, and love the adventure of going to a place less traveled. Snorkeling, fishing, and shelling are said to be superb, and those are favorite past times of ours. If we wait and travel at the same time as the Conklins, we'll leave Wednesday or Thursday at around 4 a.m. and go nonstop a distance of 130 nautical miles, arriving at about 9 p.m. That's the plan, anyway, and of course plans are subject to change - especially when cruising the Bahamas.

We had just anchored yesterday when Marilyn called us on the VHF to invite us to join them and another guest - Randy, whom they met cruising back in 1989 - for dinner; that was a nice treat. Dinner was fabulous and we had a good time visiting. The Conklins also have a frisky little maltese named Nemo... We really need to introduce him and Emma.

We were standing in front of Lorraine's at noon when she leaned out the window of the cafe and motioned and called for us to come in. There was a TV cameraman and reporter from Bahamas National TV doing a story on Lorraine's and they interviewed us, so if you happen to be watching, be sure to look for us.

Lorraine was a busy woman today: she was also catering a lunch/picnic/fundraiser for her church across the street from the school, so we and the Conklins partook. There was a choice of chicken, fish, or barbecued ribs, with peas and rice and a choice of macaroni and cheese, cole slaw, or potato salad. Guess I won't have to cook tonight, either. YES!

Artistic Conch

I watched this little guy as he created a design in the sand. Wayne and I agreed on what the design looks like; what do you think?

Catching up

We stayed anchored on the south end of Norman's Cay Sunday-Tuesday nights. Norman's Cay is best known for its history as the base of a major drug smuggling operation, although the only evidence that remains today are bullet holes in buildings and a smuggling plane resting in the shallow anchorage near us.

There is so much beauty around the anchorage to enjoy and so many areas to explore, it quickly became one of our favorite anchorages in the Exumas. As in the rest of the Exumas, you can't imagine more beautiful water - one can sit for hours and just gaze in awe at God's amazing creation.

We wandered the sand flats at low tide in search of shells and explored to our hearts' content. Several 4-5' rays spent the afternoon lying in the sand next to our boat, occasionally swimming off gracefully to return later. We enjoyed conversation with other boaters and invited Ed and Ann on Windswept Dreams over for drinks and appetizers.

Wednesday at Shroud Cay brought rain - a much needed shower for Lena Bea and the perfect opportunity for her captain and admiral to get caught up on indoor chores. I made yogurt, baked bread and granola bars, cleaned out and reorganized the frig, etc. It cleared up in time for Chris and Candace (on Juniper) to come over for attitude adjustment hour at 5:00. Thursday afternoon as the tide was rising we took the dinghy up a windy, shallow creek to a beach on the east side of the island. We climbed up to Camp Driftwood for a lovely panoramic view of the area.


Shroud Cay is on the northern end of the Exuma Land and Sea Park, where we like to spend a lot of time hiking, snorkeling, and enjoying the pristine, unspoiled beauty of the place. There are strict regulations to ensure that it stays that way, and hunting and fishing are prohibited. We had planned to slowly mosey our way through the Park and down south, then blast up north at the end of our stay in the Bahamas, but the Exuma Park will have to wait due to a change of plans...

We've kept in touch with Bruce and Marilyn Conklin aboard Reflection since leaving home; they are also in the Exumas and live in Punta Gorda as well. They've been awaiting a weather window to head down to the Ragged Islands. The night before last they sent us an email from Black Point saying the weather wasn't cooperating yet (Marilyn likes it really calm), so Wayne and I decided to skip on down to visit them today. We are en route as I write this. It's about a 36 mile trip and we're making good time in very favorable winds. We'll probably spend a few days in Blackpoint, which is the second largest settlement in the Exumas (after Georgetown), then continue further south for awhile before heading north to catch what we skipped over on our way down.

Bruce and Marilyn coordinate Operation Bahamas Project - they collect books and school supplies and recruit boaters to deliver them to schools in the Bahamas. This year's efforts resulted in over 700 boxes of books and supplies being delivered by 50+ boats. We have 17 boxes aboard Lena Bea for delivery to the school in Black Point.

Another reason it might be a good idea to head south now is the hope of warmer temperatures for snorkeling. We've had gorgeous weather, but the temperature has been in the 70's - not warm enough to inspire us to go in the water. Of course, we wouldn't have missed snorkeling in the Exuma Park, regardless of temperature, but two weeks later into spring might make a difference.

Mahi mahi for dinner!

Two strikes and a hit! First one got our lure, second one made it up to the boat, third one is dinner. Don't know how big mahi mahi normally run, but this one was 34 inches. This is the first fish we've ever successfully caught from the sailboat (except for a barracuda, that is). We're grilling it and serving it with a lemon and butter dill sauce, which I've carried with us on every sailing trip with fresh fish potential since 2007 (always kept refrigerated, so it should still be good). 

Serious fishing

We're off to do some serious fishing today before heading over to Norman's Cay. I hope to have photos and video to share later on, or at least a fish story. Wish us luck (we'll need it).