More ICW

Sand dunes

We’re really enjoying the Intracoastal Waterway; there is lovely scenery and it is far more interesting than sailing in the Atlantic, miles from shore. We are seeing more wildlife, too: the first dolphins since Canada,

Out for a swim with the kids

many birds, and today we even saw a bunch of goats. There's evidence that we are farther south, including palm trees (in North Carolina? That's pushing it), the first pelicans of the trip, and yes, even no-see-ums.

It’s slow-going on the ICW, though, and requires vigilance. With shallow water due to shoaling in many places, we often have to slow down; we scraped bottom a couple times and came close several more times today. Because of that, it is easier and more relaxing to travel during high tide, but it's less stressful going under bridges at low tide. I must say, though, that the bridges have almost become a non-issue; we have gone under so many that we've gotten used to them, and of course it helps that we have not hit one yet.

The weather continues to be hot and muggy and cools off very little at night, but we don’t complain, considering what the weather could be. Today we were supposed to be in thunderstorms all day and they totally missed us; more are predicted for tomorrow.

Because the ICW is so narrow and shallow (so far, anyway), there are very few places to anchor, but tonight we had planned to anchor in Calabash Creek in Little River, South Carolina, which we were told is a very nice anchorage. Well, we tried to get into the creek but ran aground at the entrance (how did all those other boats get in there?). Wayne managed to get us free and was not about to try again, so we ended up at Harbour Village Marina in Hampstead.

It annoys me to have to dock when we would rather anchor and then have to pay for it besides. Many of these marinas have wonderful facilities, which we pay for whether we use them or not, which we don't. All we need is a place to tie up the boat so we can sleep. It's like being on a road trip and staying at a Marriott when all you want or need is a bed and a bath. Or traveling in an RV when all you need is a truck stop or WalMart parking lot, but being forced to pay for a campground with all the amenities. Tonight is pretty cheap, though - only $1.00/foot ($45).